Restaurant Guide

Lalla Rookh: Restaurant review

Opening chef Joel Valvasori-Pereza might have left the building, but the party rages on at this CBD bunker.


Lower ground floor,
77 St Georges Tce, Perth


Mon-Fri 11:30am-10pm;
Sat 5pm-10pm


E $16-$20
M $29-$66
D $15-16;
chef's menu $71

How does the CBD love this tavern hiding in plain sight beneath St Georges Terrace? Let us count the ways. It loves it on a Friday when suits crowd the smart-casual public bar for end-of-week knock-offs and crisp, elegant and hugely underrated pizza – some of the city's best. It loves it through the day and night when the dedicated enoteca offers a quiet perch to recharge and explore one of Perth's best stockpiles of European wine, available for drink-in or takeaway pleasure. But most of all, it loves it whenever the occasion calls for spirited Italian dining. Alexandra Haynes eschews the confines of regionality and tradition in favour of a cosmopolitan menu rooted in deliciousness. Sweet summery tomatoes are crowned with thick pucks of pickled cucumber, shichimi togarashi and shavings of dried beef; grilled octopus is played off against vinegary braised witlof; and tagliatelle correctly sauced with an oxtail ragù spiked with cocoa is typical of the gutsy, house-made pasta on offer. Attentive staff patrol the entire venue and know when to swoop with comforting Italianate sweets (a tumbler of tiramisù, perhaps) or to reload glasses.
(08) 9325 7077
Bookings recommended
  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair access
  • Outdoor dining
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Diners Club
  • MasterCard
  • Eftpos
  • Visa
Alexandra Haynes
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.