Jessica Wyld
How does the CBD love this tavern hiding in plain sight beneath St Georges Terrace? Let us count the ways. It loves it on a Friday when suits crowd the smart-casual public bar for end-of-week knock-offs and crisp, elegant and hugely underrated pizza – some of the city’s best. It loves it through the day and night when the dedicated enoteca offers a quiet perch to recharge and explore one of Perth’s best stockpiles of European wine, available for drink-in or takeaway pleasure. But most of all, it loves it whenever the occasion calls for spirited Italian dining. Alexandra Haynes eschews the confines of regionality and tradition in favour of a cosmopolitan menu rooted in deliciousness. Sweet summery tomatoes are crowned with thick pucks of pickled cucumber, shichimi togarashi and shavings of dried beef; grilled octopus is played off against vinegary braised witlof; and tagliatelle correctly sauced with an oxtail ragù spiked with cocoa is typical of the gutsy, house-made pasta on offer. Attentive staff patrol the entire venue and know when to swoop with comforting Italianate sweets (a tumbler of tiramisù, perhaps) or to reload glasses.
Phone:
(08) 9325 7077
Website:
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
Licensed
Bar
Vegetarian-friendly
Wheelchair access
Outdoor dining
Accepted card types:
American Express
Diners Club
MasterCard
Eftpos
Visa
Chef:
Alexandra Haynes
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Gourmet Traveller’s restaurant guide gives a yearly snapshot at the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 50. The wine star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
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