Hugh Davidson
REVIEW
It’s hard to fathom that O.My is 10, given the level of enthusiasm the Bertoncello brothers (Blayne in the kitchen and on the restaurant’s farm; Chayse on wine and the floor) bring to their dark-hued, city-edge diner. The sense of fun and adventure throughout the 10 to 20 veg-focused courses is infectious; not just because the combinations of flavours are wholly original, but also because they’re also unfailingly delicious. It might start with a small ring of fried pastry filled, wreath-like, with edible leaves and flowers. Then skip to pickled and fermented vegetables in tempura-like batter. And on to seared and poached calamari with semi-dried tomatoes in a luscious broth made from the offcuts, wallaby teamed with pickled green tomatoes and a sourdough pudding with quince and strawberry gum. The wine selection is a highlight, favouring well-made, minimal-intervention labels from small growers, all explained with candour and humour. Another 10 please.
ABOUT
O.My
Australian
70 Princes Hwy, Beaconsfield
(03) 9769 9000
Chef Blayne Bertoncello
Price guide $$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Sat-Sun; Dinner Thu-Sun
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.
Gourmet Traveller Annual Restaurant Guide
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