There is no denying destructive weather patterns across the country have affected farming. Winemakers are not immune to the impacts of climate change and have adopted methods to combat this, from changing which grapes are planted where, to planting more resilient varieties and adopting agricultural practices to withstand the rougher seasons.
A benchmark example of a region adopting sustainable viticultural practices is the Margaret River, 270 kilometres south of Perth and home to some iconic biodynamic and organic wineries.
Heralded as the “high priestess of biodynamics” in Australia, Vanya Cullen of Cullen Wines comes from a long line of climate advocates. “It’s come from an ancestral energy, which cares about the land. A lineage who fought for human rights and the environment,” says Cullen. “We grew up fighting bauxite mining on the cape in Margaret River. My parents fought to save Lake Pedder in Tasmania.”
She describes how this history is woven through Cullen’s biodynamic agricultural practices. “Mum found Hungarian shipmast locust trees and planted them as possible replacements for chopping down jarrah trees for vineyard posts,” she says. “[We have] endless examples of living for and with the environment and connecting to country as the Wadandi say. It was inevitable that this started and continues with minimal chemical inputs. We are organic, biodynamic and carbon positive. We concentrate on emissions reduction and offset emissions through carbon sequestration.”
Josephine Perry from Dormilona is Margaret River born and bred. “It was almost like I had a homing beacon that I had to come back here,” says Perry. And because of this love of home, Perry sees how the land here suits these practices compared to other regions.
“The vineyards handle the climate changes better because of these sustainable organic practices. It works better in Margaret River because of the maritime climate. The vineyards that sit higher with a northern aspect combined with these sustainable practices are the ones that flourish through the tougher seasons.”
Perry’s winery was certified organic in 2017. “Sustainability and organics have always been of interest – everyone’s eating and drinking better and being more conscious,” she says.
But it’s not just family-owned and -operated or small-scale wineries adopting organic or biodynamic viticultural techniques. Voyager Estate, which processes 500 tonnes of fruit a season (or 30,000 cases of wine) from its 335-hectare estate, will emerge from organic conversion into certification in 2023, with most blocks from the original 1978 vines already converted to organic practices.
Glen Ryan, vineyard manager for Voyager, explains that it was a positive shift starting in 2017 to convert to organic farming practices. “It’s a company choice, you either do it or not but you need to believe in it,” he says. And it’s starting to reap rewards. Voyager’s wettest November was 2020. Thanks to the organic preparations and conversions, the vineyard was in fantastic shape coming into the 2021 vintage.
Cullen and Perry agree that the wines benefit from these practices. “The wines are complex with a pure line of taste to the land. No additions except sulphur dioxide and some bentonite; all adding texture and interest to the wine.”
Margaret River wine region sits on the traditional land of the Wadandi (Saltwater People), one of 14 Noongar people who are the traditional custodians of south-west Western Australia. The Noongar refer to their land as Noongar boodja and the Wadandi have a connection with the river and seas, expressed in songs and stories.
Five Margaret River wines to try
2022 Voyager Estate Chenin Blanc, $25
With heritage vines from the original 1978 plantings on the Voyager Estate property, this chenin blanc is easily the most refined version the certified organic winery has ever produced. The wine is vibrant and textural with hints of apricot and elderflower – a perfect accompaniment to sea bass on coals.
2021 Blind Corner Chardonnay Aligoté, $50
Certified organic and biodynamic chardonnay is slowly being grafted into the French variety aligoté (or “poor man’s Burgundy”) to create a medium-bodied, citrus-driven style of white wine. The aligoté brings bright and lively notes to the chardonnay’s more rounded stone-fruit qualities.
2021 Dormilona Cabernet Sauvignon, $44
From a completely dry-grown organic block of fruit in Yallingup comes an elegant example of Margaret River cabernet. Expressing a purity of fruit alongside cabernet’s traditional grippy tannins, you’ll want another glass to wash down a char-grilled tomahawk steak.
2021 Cullen Wines Mangan East Block Malbec Petit Verdot, $55.
This blend is comprised of 59 per cent malbec and 41 per cent petit verdot from the certified biodynamic and carbon-neutral Mangan vineyard. True to the Cullen ethos, the malbec was harvested on a fruit day and the petit verdot on a full moon flower day to enhance the energy of the wine.
2018 Burnside Organic Farm Zinfandel, $65
The McCall family’s much-loved zinfandel from its organic vineyards. Wild strawberries and fruits of the forest meet with darker, earthier spices to create a heady, medium-bodied plush red wine with smooth finish.
