What is amaro?
Medicinal tonic, aperitivo, or both? Michael Madrusan of The Everleigh talks us through the wonderful world of the herbal liqueur, amaro.
Cynar
Made by Campari, this relatively young (mid-'60s in age) amaro is made predominantly from artichoke and considered both an aperitivo and digestivo. It is savoury and bittersweet; perfect as it is after dinner, but also friendly enough to play alongside other flavours. Add a splash to a classic Manhattan for extra depth and complexity, or simply serve it tall with tonic or bitter lemon.
Photo: Rob ShawFernet-Branca
A firm favourite among amaro enthusiasts and bartenders, Fernet-Branca packs a hell of a punch with very little sweetness. The recipe is a closely guarded family secret, though we know it contains a bucketload of saffron, along with peppermint, myrrh and chamomile. Traditionally, it's consumed neat at room temperature after a night of indulgence, and also appears in a host of classic and modern cocktails.
Personally, I love Fernet's partner in crime, Branca Menta. It works wonders on a full stomach. Try Fernet-Branca or Branca Menta in the L'appetit cocktail, from The Flowing Bowl, published in 1891: two parts sweet vermouth to one part Fernet-Branca on the
rocks, with a twist of orange.
Amaro Nonino
Nonino is grappa-based, so it's bursting with bright fruit flavours. Think extra pithy marmalade tempered by herbal notes of thyme and menthol. This one is great on the rocks with an orange wedge, used in place of vermouth in a classic Rob Roy, and to create one of our house favourites, the Training Day cocktail.
Photo: Rob ShawAmaro Montenegro
Move over Frangelico, this golden elixir is fast becoming a hot pick post dinner. This smooth sipper boasts a secret recipe (of course), with strong notes of vanilla and orange zest. Serve it over ice with a wedge of orange, or try it stirred down with your favourite dark spirit. Just a splash will totally transform your Old Fashioned.
Photo: Rob ShawCocchi Dopo Teatro
Much more bitter than a classic vermouth, but smoother and lighter than your typical amaro, this is a stunning drop. Due to its wine base, it won't last indefinitely as other amari will, but, kept in the fridge, it will easily see out a couple of months at least. Serve chilled and pair it with dark chocolate.
Photo: Rob ShawIschia Sapori Rucolino
I first tried this little wonder at my uncle's house in Queens, New York, back in 2009. I couldn't believe that I hadn't tried it before. It had just the right amount of spice and bitterness to settle the pasta I'd had for lunch. Rucolino is made from a closely guarded secret, like all secret-agent amari, but we do know that in addition to rocket, citrus features in the recipe, which lightens the flavour but doesn't make it as light as Montenegro or Nonino. It's a darker style and best served cold or on ice without a garnish.
Photo: Rob ShawCappelletti Sfumato Rabarbaro
Otherwise known as "smoky rhubarb", this is a wine-based, rather than spirit-based, amaro. Cappelletti uses a Chinese variety of rhubarb root grown in Trentino Alto Adige e Veneto combined with alpine herbs and berries to make this bartender favourite. I love a dash of this added to a Manhattan – the dry smokiness brings a complexity that has you thinking through the whole drink.
Photo: Rob ShawApplewood Økar
Handcrafted from botanicals native to the coastal rainforests of Australia, this Adelaide Hills amaro showcases rare riberries, fresh Davidson's plum and strawberry gum leaf.
Photo: Rob Shaw