Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats around the country right now: Morning After, Brisbane.
The antithesis of the grungy, boho cafés that used to define the quarter, Morning After might be a fitting poster child for the new West End. The deconstructed breakfast pappardelle "carbonara" pairs guanciale with field mushrooms, combining both with a slow-cooked egg and pecorino (the menu acknowledges it's a combination that may offend Italians). Fish tacos are laden with tempura-coated barramundi fillets, which get a lift from wasabi mayo, coriander sprigs and lime, but need more chilli bite. Lamb shoulder salad brings more satisfaction: a stack of shredded slow-roasted lamb offset by the pleasant bitterness of lightly charred radicchio leaves, fennel, peppery watercress and shavings of pecorino. It's a winning advertisement for Morning After's Yiro Sunday afternoon sessions, when the Greek heritage of mother-and-son owners Yianni and Soula Passaris (formerly of Dell'Ugo, South Bank) is given free reign.