Restaurant News

First look: Wildflower, Perth

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats around the country right now.

By Max Veenhuyzen

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats around the country right now: Wildflower, Perth.

First thing's first: Wildflower might well be Perth's best-looking dining room. Polished marble, floor-to-ceiling glass, the grand reveal of St George's Cathedral as you step from the lift four storeys up. This dashing restaurant atop Como The Treasury ticks all the boxes for a luxury hotel fine-diner, as does its prices. Nonetheless, a fervent commitment to provenance and technique helps put those $30-plus entrées into perspective.

Australian ingredients feature prominently, from steamed native greens hit with a fragrant seaweed butter to fennel and wattle seed sourdough served with a macadamia-enriched butter.

The kitchen seems equally enamoured with Japanese cooking traditions: plump scampi, grilled on the robata, garnishes a crunchy pig's tail croquette while intensely sweet saucer scallops are served raw and dressed with native basil cream and frozen buttermilk.

In a town where casual rules the roost, this sort of ambitious cooking can feel a little precious, but cheery service and a user-friendly wine list keep things fun. Fine dining, it would seem, is alive and kicking out west.

Wildflower, 1 Cathedral Ave, Perth, WA, (08) 6168 7780. Open Tue-Sat noon-2.30pm and 6pm-10pm.

Got a hot tip for our Hot Plates team? Let us know on Facebook or tag your Instagram photos with #GThotplates.

SHAREPIN
  • Author: Max Veenhuyzen