Trust Brent Savage to serve Sydney’s fanciest fish and chips. The fries are properly seasoned, the tartare sauce textbook and the handsome whole flathead – boned, barring the head and tail – is crumbed with panko, puffed rice and amaranth. And trust Nick Hildebrandt to propose a spot-on pairing from his perfectly pitched wine list – a textural, oxidative macabeu blend – and pour it from a fetching Brian Hirst decanter. When these guys commit to a theme, they really commit. At Cirrus, the duo’s shrine to seafood, every detail is given its due, and the execution across the board is of the highest order. Inventive, artfully plated starters make a strong first impression (how is that seductively smoky eel custard so insanely silken?), while generous, equally faultless main courses like roasted swordfish steak crowned with sweet slivers of fennel, bottarga and toasty buckwheat play it straighter. Though just metres apart, the airy, free-flowing space feels miles away from the fast-casual frenzy that is Barangaroo, thanks in no small part to informed and intuitive service from an experienced team. Cast those worries aside, splash some cash and drop anchor.
Gourmet Traveller’s restaurant guide gives a yearly snapshot at the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 50. The wine star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
