The perfect drum roll to Tonka’s modern-Indian moves is a pre-dinner rum- spiked lassi or chai-flavoured punch at the Thali Bar paired with snacks – perhaps signature feather-light pani puri, or a feisty bundle of tandoor rockling, wombok and pickled onions wrapped in a lettuce leaf – and the scent of garam masala in the air. It sets the agenda as accurately as the clean lines of the spacious dining room and the noteworthy Italian-accented wine list. Framing Indian food in a contemporary Euro-style setting like this is an anomaly in Melbourne but Tonka serves up substance to support the style. Some of the best eating moments come courtesy of the tandoor oven – a whole juicy spatchcock with pickles is a masterclass in how good this cooking technique can be – but there are highlights from the less traditional reaches of the menu, too. Vindaloo steak tartare with fenugreek raita is a brilliant example of well-balanced spicing, as is the yellow dal tadka subtly heated with Kashmiri chilli and a knee-weakeningly good dessert of carrot halwa with cream cheese ice-cream. Great service completes the good times.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot at the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 50.
Tim Grey
