Modern European

Elektra’s pan-European approach is a shift in the right direction, writes Michael Harden. And let's talk about that potato snack.

REVIEW Bare-bones dish descriptions are effective teasers for the menu at this European-inspired bistro. Sure, the stylish 30-seater run by owner-chef James Guldberg and wife, Erinn Jordan (who oversees the floor), has a steadfast local clientele. But it’s also a venue worth making a trip across town for, particularly for the bargain prix-fixe lunch. Try […]

REVIEW With an elevated position and cinematic Story Bridge views, Alchemy offers some of Brisbane’s best riverfront dining. A popular spot for business lunches with nearby Eagle Street’s corporate set, by night it morphs into special-occasion territory, with experienced, amiable staff running the floor. Interiors are sophisticated, decorated in earthy and copper tones, with timber […]

Precision cooking, killer wine list, polished service – all the ingredients add up to make Fred’s the hottest table in town.

REVIEW The Euro is a revered and versatile stalwart of the Brisbane scene. An imaginative yet unintimidating menu and relatively sober fittings are boosted by friendly, efficient service. Buckwheat risotto is typical of the clever bistro-with-a-twist dishes on offer, presented with edamame and Kalamata olives in a watercress sauce. Precisely cooked Paroo kangaroo striploin arrives […]

REVIEW You can still order a schooner of Reschs with confidence, but The Four in Hand isn’t what you’d call a classic Sydney bloodhouse − its plasmas screen the netball as well as the rugby, and the look for most of the punters speaks of healthily diversified investment portfolios. And while the bar menu offers […]

REVIEW At last count, Surry Hills had 42 trillion venues where you can peck at a nifty little salad or poke at a spicy smudge of Asian fusion on the end of a ceramic spoon. So if that’s what you’re looking for, look elsewhere. You’ll have plenty of options. It might be pretty, it might […]

This restaurant is now closed.

REVIEW After winning fans at Canberra’s A Baker and cooking at Temporada, chef Adam Bantock has escaped to the country with some grand designs for regional cuisine. He’s taken to heart the concept of home-grown hospitality, transforming part of his family cottage into a 50-seat eatery. The cooking is fittingly accessible, eschewing culinary chicanery in […]

REVIEW Kensington Street bears the hallmarks of a restaurant rolled out by a chef with a lot of other restaurants. That chef is Jason Atherton, the most successful of Gordon Ramsay’s protégés, captivating diners with gleaming fit-outs, smart-casual dining and big, inclusive menus in London, Hong Kong, Manhattan and now Chippendale. Some attempts at local […]

REVIEW Escoffier would surely applaud Mayflower’s “classic hotel fare” – lobster bisque, chateaubriand with béarnaise sauce, chicken Kiev – just as he’d commend the plush velvet chairs and large gilt mirrors that transform this hotel basement into an elegant, welcoming dining space. White tablecloths, silver napkin rings and monogrammed aprons echo scenes at the Savoy, […]

There’s no shortage of Heston Blumenthal’s sorcery at his historically inspired Dinner, but the package is all class, writes Michael Harden.

Elvis Abrahanowicz’s new and improved rendering of the deli puts the tin in Latin and Martinis in tins. The bistro’s not bad either, writes Pat Nourse.

REVIEW Source mixes sophistication with simplicity – that’s the impression that strikes you upon entering the restaurant’s stripped-back room. There’s a smart selection of art on the exposed-brick walls, a mix of modern Scandinavian furniture and, out the back, a garden filled with herbs and edible flowers. The staff are welcoming, as are the local […]

REVIEW Candles and Edison bulbs provide an inviting glow throughout this former mill, softening its old stone and painted tin walls. Tall tables inside and out are taken by wine bar patrons, while the mismatched chairs at timber tables are reserved for diners in the rear area and mezzanine. Seed’s menu is listed from lightest […]

REVIEW Why aren’t more people talking about Nel? In a glam basement off grimy Wentworth Avenue, this restaurant has flown largely under the radar. Chef Nelly Robinson’s eight-course set menu changes monthly and is as eclectic as it is inventive, including everything from Indian and South East Asian flavours to Eccles cakes. You might start […]

REVIEW There’s a running gag in Agatha Christie novels with characters mistaking her most famous detective for a Frenchman. “Belgian,” says Hercule Poirot, correcting everyone. The same misconception could apply to chef David Coumont, a Belgian native who takes cues from both Australia and Europe for his seafood-rich menu. This elegant restaurant, named after his […]

There’s technique and theatre aplenty at Heston Blumenthal’s highly coveted ephemeral Fat Duck pop-up, writes Michael Harden.

In his latest encore, Andrew McConnell slips smoothly from mod Asian to Parisian-style bistro, writes Michael Harden. Luxembourg, take a bow.

An assured and talented team matches wine-friendly food to a cellar of great booze and a slick space at new South Melbourne bistro Bellota, writes Michael Harden.

REVIEW Ten years on, this pioneering gem punches well above its nominal café status – even at breakfast, when your omelette might arrive loaded with local spanner crab. As the sun sets, proceedings ratchet up further. Uplights accentuate the narrow, bistro-style room with its raw brickwork and bentwood chairs. A clipped but clever wine list […]

Seven years at Four in Hand have done little to stem the creative juices of head chef Colin Fassnidge – in fact, writes Pat Nourse, his evolving style continually renders excellence.

Melbourne, long perceived as both food destination and arts hub, now has a theatre restaurant worth an encore. Trocadero, take a bow.

REVIEW Double-dressed tables. Fussy compositions on big plates. A chef that loves playing with guests’ food: team Petite Mort evidently missed – or ignored – the memo about contemporary restaurant trends. But for those unmoved by the zeitgeist (no bookings, communal tables, venues that lean more bar than dining room), this bare-brick diner in leafy […]

Old-school fine dining of the truffle-shaving-at-the-table variety may be making a comeback if Albert Park’s reinvigorated The Point is anything to go by, writes Michael Harden.

Colin Fassnidge, the poet of pork, is one of the most interesting talents cooking in Sydney today, writes Pat Nourse, who visits 4Fourteen and asks: is that a slice of snout?

REVIEW Watermelon with the texture of rare kangaroo, white chocolate twigs so lifelike they look as if they were gathered from the rainforest walk outside. This is food designed to challenge and excite. Take sweet braised kangaroo tail, beautifully paired with tangy lilly pillies and the watermelon, which has been slow-roasted, frozen and pan-fried to […]

The Devonshire doesn’t offer high tea per se, but it has loads of good tea-time eats, writes Pat Nourse.

REVIEW Caves Road is Margaret River’s golden mile, a scenic route studded with prize wineries (Vasse Felix, Cullen, Pierro) and Cape Lodge, a hinterland estate offering upscale accommodation and dining to match. Chef Michael Elfwing and his floor staff do much of the heavy lifting in a dated dining room beside a pretty lake. His […]

Chef Daniel Southern’s debut at Comme has brought new energy, focus and confidence to the restaurant, writes Michael Harden. Now the food is as sharp as its slick surrounds.

Headed by two former Bistro Moncur chefs, newcomer Blanco brings a fresh combination of levity and exactitude to casual Kings Cross dining, writes Pat Nourse.

Tucked away from the central spectacle of Sydney’s Ivy is the Parisian-chic Ash Street Cellar. It’s the perfect place to enjoy the wilderness of the city at a safe remove, says Pat Nourse.

The Burlington at Crows Nest is a boon for North Shore diners who no longer have to cross the bridge to enjoy Matt Kemp’s European brasserie-style dining, writes Pat Nourse.

Don’t be fooled when you meet chef Adam Humphrey at Arras – he may have a thick Yorkshire accent but you won’t find any stodgy stews here.

The Spanish are passionate about their food, wine and soccer. Head to this North Shore tapas bar for a sample of the first two – and to chat about the third.

REVIEW You’re guaranteed to pause at least once during your meal to identify the instrumental song being piped through the restaurant. (It was Clint Mansell’s “Requiem for a Dream” that caught us.) But there will be little confusion over the quality of Peter Sheppard’s food. This fine-dining, French-leaning restaurant is Wollongong’s most awarded, and it’s […]

Two blokes with an impressive pedigree open a Glebe diner that’s a bastion of simple and honest regional cooking.

In an area short on fine dining, a defiant restaurant is bucking the trend. Soulful cooking, chic room... Is Delizia the best in the west?

After stellar stints in various Sydney venues, chef Darrell Felstead brings his confident, assured style to his own venture, Foveaux Restaurant & Bar, in Surry Hills. It deserves your attention.