Fish

No gemfish? No problem. Any firm, white-fleshed fish – trevally, say – will work here.

When Sunda's Khanh Nguyen says this is one of the best curries he's had, we need no further convincing.

This ancient Roman staple is enjoying a renaissance in modern kitchens, from René Redzepi’s beef-based version to restaurant Pipit's vegan green garlic sauce. Plus, a recipe for garum fish stew by Sydney's Pendolino.

A quick pan-fry in butter, a simple side of mushrooms and green beans – dinner done.

An extra-fishy version of Sicily's pasta con sarde, with a sardine and anchovy salsa spooned atop the swordfish.