With impeccable service, a mastery of Cantonese cooking and one of the greatest restaurant entrances in Australia, the Melbourne institution does all the classics without the stasis.
Chef Ben Williamson is heating up the city's dining scene once again, with flame- and smoke-kissed dishes that are innovative without being intimidating.
They've moved up the road sans wood-fire oven, but that hasn't stopped the Sydney restaurant from serving good, honest food backed up with a commitment to sustainability.
From the folks behind Neighbourhood Wine comes a fine local bistro with wood-fired dishes that reference the chef's South African heritage, and a sweet and smoky pork chop that just won't quit.
Sure, Pasi Petänen can spin Pacojets with the best of them. But with his new, permanent home in Sydney's Inner West, the chef and serial pop-up artist shows he can still win at the basics.