Late in 2023, a renovation of both dining room and name (losing the “bistro” modifier) signalled a shift at Gerard’s, Brisbane’s great purveyor of modern Middle Eastern cuisine. The more obvious changes come with the drama of the new room – rammed earth walls; a concrete-topped, statement-making central bar; theatrical, flattering lighting – but the menu has also been tweaked, now more specifically Levantine while still exhibiting deft mod-Oz touches. Staggeringly good barbari bread, blistered from the wood grill and glistening with oil, is served with creamy goat’s curd while thickly sliced raw kingfish is tangled with fermented eggplant and clean, green yoghurt sauce. A Malfouf salad of fermented cabbage, refreshingly spiked with citrus and sorrel, is a perfect match with smoky, juicy lamb collar elevated by a subtly spicy acilli ezme. The smattering of Lebanese and Moroccan labels on the solid, largely Euro-focused wine list also does its part, helping to seal the new direction’s deal.
