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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Lemon dream

"This cake is the new religion at Flour and Stone, and never fails to send those worshipping it into a dream of billowy clouds," says Ingram. "It has come to many parties, including one where its name was changed to reflect the euphoric place it transports you to."

Pan-fried mulloway with potato gratin and leek sauce


You'll need

2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tbsp plain flour 400 ml pouring cream 1.3 kg potatoes, such as desiree, royal blue or Nicola, peeled 280 gm butter, coarsely chopped 2 leeks, thinly sliced 4 sprigs thyme 2 fresh bay leaves 125 ml (½ cup) dry white wine 60 ml (¼ cup) white-wine vinegar 6 pieces (180gm each) mulloway, skin on To serve: steamed Roman beans

Method

  • 01
  • For the gratin, combine garlic in a large bowl with salt and pepper, flour and cream. Finely slice potatoes using a mandolin, add potato to cream mixture and spoon into a 1.5-litre capacity ovenproof dish. Cover with foil, bake at 150C for 1-1½ hours or until potatoes are tender.
  • 02
  • For the sauce, melt 30gm butter in a saucepan, add leeks, thyme and bay leaves and sweat for 15 minutes over a medium heat, stirring continuously until soft. Deglaze with white wine and white-wine vinegar. Cook on high heat for 4 minutes or until reduced to a syrup. Remove bay and thyme, purée leeks. Whisk remaining butter, a piece at a time, taking special care not to split the sauce, adjust seasoning.
  • 03
  • Cook fish in a hot frying pan which has been lightly oiled, skin-side first, for 4-5 minutes, turn and cook for 2 minutes or until just cooked. Serve with potato gratin, beans and leek sauce.

At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people

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