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AA Gill's final column for Gourmet Traveller

We mourn the loss of a treasured member of the Gourmet Traveller family who passed awayon December 10, 2016. British writer AA Gill was a contributor to the magazine from July 2004. Gill’s travel column was as insightful as it was witty, funny as it was thoughtful – he was without peer. This is the final piece he wrote for Gourmet Traveller; it appears in the December issue, 2016. - Anthea Loucas Bosha, Editor

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Coconut crab and green mango salad

"This salad bursts with fresh, vibrant flavours and became a signature on my Paramount menus," says Christine Manfield. "I capitalised on using green mangoes in many dishes as they became more widely available. Blue swimmer crabs from South Australia have the most delicious sweet meat. It's best to buy them whole, cook them yourself and carefully pick the meat from the shell - a tedious task but it gives the best flavour. This entree also works well with spanner crab meat (you can buy this in packs ready cooked from reliable fishmongers). The sweetness of the crab, the richness of the fresh coconut and the sourness of green mango make a wonderful partnership. It's all about harmony on the palate and using the very best produce."

Mussel and saffron veloute


You'll need

100 ml dry white wine 1 onion, thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, crushed 2 fresh bay leaves 2 sprigs thyme 2 stalks flat-leaf parsley 1 kg blue mussels, scrubbed and beards removed 50 gm butter 40 gm plain flour 750 ml (3 cups) fish stock, warmed 1 pinch of saffron, soaked in 2 tbsp hot water for 15 minutes 2 egg yolks 150 ml double cream

Method

  • 01
  • Combine wine, onion, garlic and herbs in a large saucepan and bring to the boil over high heat. Add mussels, cover with a lid and steam for 3-4 minutes or until mussels open. Remove from heat and set aside to cool slightly.
  • 02
  • Heat butter in a saucepan over medium heat, add flour and stir until well combined, then cook for another 2 minutes or until mixture smells nutty. Whisk in fish stock and stir until mixture comes to the boil, then reduce heat and simmer gently for 30 minutes.
  • 03
  • Meanwhile, remove mussels from shells and reserve meat. Strain liquid through a fine sieve and reserve.
  • 04
  • Add mussel juice to soup, stir to combine, then add saffron and soaking liquid.
  • 05
  • Whisk together egg yolks and cream, add a ladle of soup and whisk to combine, then add cream mixture to soup and stir to combine, ensuring soup does not boil. Add mussels to soup, ladle into bowls, garnish with freshly ground black pepper and serve.

At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people

Featured in

Jun 2007

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