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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

O Tama Carey's fried eggs with seeni sambol, coconut and turmeric

"I first cooked a version of this dish - inspired by the excellent deep-fried egg dish at Billy Kwong - while working at a restaurant in Sri Lanka," says O Tama Carey. "The lattice-like eggs are doused in a creamy turmeric curry sauce and topped with seeni sambol, a sweet-spiced caramelised onion relish. This dish is equally perfect for an indulgent breakfast as it is served as part of a larger meal." The recipe for the seeni sambol makes more than you need, but to get the right balance of spices you need to make at least this much. It keeps refrigerated for up to three weeks; use as an onion relish. The curry sauce can be made a day or two ahead.

Lamb shank and farro perlato broth


Farro perlato is like a wheat version of pearl barley, and helps make this broth the epitome of comfort food. We've stripped out the vegetables used to flavour the broth; leave them in for a heartier soup.

You'll need

2 tbsp olive oil 4 lamb shanks (about 300gm each) 1 small celeriac (about 450gm), finely chopped 4 celery stalks, finely chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 4 thyme sprigs 500 ml (2 cups) each chicken and veal stock 125 gm farro perlato (see note) soaked in cold water for 2 hours 1 vine-ripened tomato, scored   Gremolata ¼ cup coarsely torn flat-leaf parsley leaves 2 tsp finely grated lemon rind ¼ garlic clove, finely shaved

Method

  • 01
  • Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a casserole over medium-high heat. Season shanks and cook, turning occasionally, until browned (4-6 minutes). Remove from pan and set aside, then add remaining oil, vegetables, garlic and thyme to pan and stir until soft (5-7 minutes). Add stocks, lamb and 750ml water and bring to the boil, then reduce heat to low and cook until lamb is tender, adding more water if necessary to keep it covered (2 hours). Cool, transfer lamb to a bowl, remove meat from bones (discarding bones) and break into bite-sized pieces. Refrigerate until required.
  • 02
  • Strain stock into a clean pan, discarding vegetables. Refrigerate until fat solidifies(3-4 hours), then skim fat from surface. Bring to boil over medium-high heat, add farro perlato and cook until tender (20-30 minutes). Add lamb and cook until warmed through(1-2 minutes).
  • 03
  • Meanwhile, blanch tomato until skin splits (20-30 seconds), then refresh. Peel, remove seeds, quarter, and cut each quarter lengthways into 4-5 petals.
  • 04
  • For gremolata, combine all ingredients in a bowl and refrigerate until required.
  • 05
  • Serve broth scattered with gremolata and a few tomato petals.

Note If farro perlato is unavailable, substitute pearl barley.


At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people

Drink Suggestion

A southern Italian red, such as a Nero d’Avola from Sicily.

Featured in

Mar 2009

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