Healthy Eating

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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Chimichangas


These may well be the best-ever party snack (in fact, they might not even make it out of the kitchen). You can buy your tortillas, but they won't be as good as these rich, flaky ones. We've deep-fried them, but you can heat them in the oven if you prefer.

You'll need

For deep-frying: vegetable oil To serve: sour cream   Carne adobada 3 dried long red chillies 1½ tsp each cumin and coriander seeds ½ tsp white peppercorns 1 tsp dried oregano 4 golden shallots, coarsely chopped 4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped 1 kg beef brisket, cut into 10cm pieces 2 tbsp vegetable oil 1 tbsp each ground chilli and paprika 500 ml (2 cups) veal stock 1 tbsp cornflour mixed with 1 tbsp cold water   Flour tortillas 520 gm plain flour 90 gm lard (see note) 100 ml vegetable oil   Guacamole 2 avocadoes, coarsely chopped 2 golden shallots, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, crushed Juice of 2 limes, or to taste 2 tsp Worcestershire sauce Few drops Tabasco, or to taste

Method

  • 01
  • For carne adobada, finely grind whole chillies, whole spices and oregano in a mortar and pestle, transfer to a food processor, add shallot and garlic and process until finely chopped. Transfer to a bowl, add beef, toss to coat, then refrigerate to marinate (3-4 hours). Heat oil in a large saucepan over high heat, brush spice mixture from beef and reserve. Add beef to pan and turn occasionally until brown (2-3 minutes). Add reserved spice mixture and cook until fragrant (1-2 minutes), add ground chilli and paprika and stir to combine. Add stock and 500ml water, bring to the simmer, then reduce heat to low, cover and simmer until meat is very tender (2-2½ hours). Remove beef from liquid and set aside, then reduce liquid over medium-high heat by half (20-30 minutes). Meanwhile, coarsely shred beef and place in a bowl. Whisk cornflour mixture through stock, bring to the simmer and stir occasionally until very thick (10-15 minutes). Stir through beef, set aside to cool, refrigerate until chilled.
  • 02
  • Meanwhile, for flour tortillas, combine flour and ½ tsp salt in a bowl, add lard and rub in with your fingertips until incorporated. Add 350ml cold water and knead to combine; mixture may be a little sticky. Cover, refrigerate to rest (30-50 minutes). Divide into 20 balls, then roll out each on a floured bench to a 12cm-diameter round. Preheat a heavy-based frying pan or tortilla pan over medium heat, add 1 tsp oil and cook tortilla, turning once, until golden spots form (1-2 minutes each side). Set aside. Repeat with remaining dough and oil.
  • 03
  • Working with one tortilla at a time, place 1-2 tbsp beef mixture along one edge, then fold in ends and roll to make a burrito. Secure with kitchen string then repeat with remaining tortillas and beef. Set aside.
  • 04
  • Meanwhile, for guacamole, combine ingredients in a bowl, mash lightly with a fork to a coarse dip consistency and season liberally to taste. Refrigerate until required.
  • 05
  • Preheat oil in a deep-fryer to 180C. Deep-fry chimichangas in batches until golden and heated through (2-3 minutes; be careful as hot oil may spit). Serve hot with guacamole and sour cream.

Note This recipe makes about 20 tortillas. For the best-tasting tortillas, make your own lard. Place diced pork back-fat in a saucepan, add enough water to just cover the base of the pan (adding more makes the pork flavour cook out), cook over low heat until fat is rendered, then strain.


At A Glance

  • Serves 8 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 8 people

Featured in

Nov 2010

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