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AA Gill's final column for Gourmet Traveller

We mourn the loss of a treasured member of the Gourmet Traveller family who passed awayon December 10, 2016. British writer AA Gill was a contributor to the magazine from July 2004. Gill’s travel column was as insightful as it was witty, funny as it was thoughtful – he was without peer. This is the final piece he wrote for Gourmet Traveller; it appears in the December issue, 2016. - Anthea Loucas Bosha, Editor

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Coconut crab and green mango salad

"This salad bursts with fresh, vibrant flavours and became a signature on my Paramount menus," says Christine Manfield. "I capitalised on using green mangoes in many dishes as they became more widely available. Blue swimmer crabs from South Australia have the most delicious sweet meat. It's best to buy them whole, cook them yourself and carefully pick the meat from the shell - a tedious task but it gives the best flavour. This entree also works well with spanner crab meat (you can buy this in packs ready cooked from reliable fishmongers). The sweetness of the crab, the richness of the fresh coconut and the sourness of green mango make a wonderful partnership. It's all about harmony on the palate and using the very best produce."

Quick-fire fried chicken


Below is the recipe for quick-fire fried chicken, a simpler version of the one Gregory Llewelyn demonstrates in the video above. You'll find the recipe for the Hartsyard signature fried chicken in their cookbook, Fried Chicken & Friends, on sale now.

"So, you don't have the time or energy to spend three days preparing your fried chicken? What's wrong with you?" says Llewellyn. "Just kidding. Here's a quick version of the Hartsyard process. You can't fast-track everything, though. You still need to allow at least two hours for brining, and another two hours for marinating."

You'll need

2 tbsp granulated sea salt 1.4 kg chicken, cut into 8 pieces 500 gm lard or beef suet   Marinade 250 ml (1 cup) Hartsyard hot sauce (see recipe) 250 ml (1 cup) buttermilk   Crumbing mix 300 gm (2 cups) self-raising flour 3 tbsp Old Bay Seasoning (see note) 1 tbsp cayenne pepper 1 tbsp coarsely ground black pepper 1 tbsp sweet paprika 1 tbsp mustard powder 2 tsp dried thyme

Method

  • 01
  • Bring 1 litre water to the simmer in a 2-litre stockpot. Add salt and stir until dissolved. Remove from heat and pour into a non-reactive container. Cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until completely cold. Submerge chicken pieces in brine, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 4 hours.
  • 02
  • For marinade, in a large bowl, combine hot sauce and buttermilk. Remove chicken from brine and pat dry thoroughly with paper towels. Place chicken in marinade and toss until thoroughly coated. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours.
  • 03
  • For crumbing mix, mix all ingredients in a large bowl until thoroughly combined. Have the mixture at hand when you’re ready to fry up the chicken.
  • 04
  • In a cast-iron frying pan large enough to fit the chicken pieces comfortably, melt the lard or suet over medium-low heat. When it starts to shimmer, increase the heat to medium. Remove chicken from marinade, then roll in the crumbing mix to coat. Place back in the marinade, then crumbing mix again, then slowly place the chicken in the lard a piece at a time – they should start sizzling immediately. Keeping a close eye on the pan and the browning, keep frying until golden on one side. Turn chicken over and keep frying until a crust has formed and the colour is uniform. The whole frying process should take about 12 minutes. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately.

Note "Old Bay Seasoning is an American herb and spice mix, primarily used in Southern US cuisine," says Llewellyn. "I think McCormick must put fairy dust in theirs - it's that good!" It's available from usafoods.com.au. This recipe is from Fried Chicken & Friends ($49.99, hbk) by Gregory Llewellyn and Naomi Hart, published by Murdoch Books and has been reproduced with minor GT style changes.


At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people

Featured in

Aug 2015

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