Dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-10pm
One of Ben Shewry's great strengths is his ability to transform the potentially hokey into something genuine and heartfelt. After the savoury courses, you retreat to the restaurant's tiny backyard to have a cuppa and a kangaroo-shaped biscuit while chatting with a chef about the garden. That could be twee, but instead it adds an attractive earthiness to the fine-dining experience. It helps that the food you've just eaten - perhaps a sublime pie flavoured with Vegemite, Goolwa pipis shimmering with seaweed butter, sensational kangaroo meat teamed with a bunya bunya cream, or diced emu and red cabbage - is witty, dazzling and original. And that the service and wine matching is approached with intelligence and warmth, avoiding the longueurs. Add a low-key, dark-hued room, with immaculate linen-dressed tables, which reads as cosy and sophisticated, and it's little wonder securing a table here is the only tricky part of the equation.
Tasting menu $250