Breakfast Mon-Fri 7am-11.30am, Sat-Sun 8am-11.30am; daily noon-10pm
Bookings Mon-Fri lunch; for 7+ only at other times
It's slightly shocking that Cumulus Inc is 10 years old. Not in a "you haven't aged a bit" way (the gorgeous room's twin bars, timber floors and marble accents are wearing it gracefully), but because the flavour combinations and fine-dining cafe approach still feel so fresh. Menu stalwarts like carefully sourced oysters, tuna tartare with crushed peas or the calamari and radish salad with its brilliant 'nduja dressing are reliably safe choices, but it's hard to go wrong with a menu that includes a smoked bacon bap with gentleman's relish for breakfast, pork loin and confit fennel for dinner and a lime tart with mango and lemon verbena as a nightcap. Service is a plus - switched on and efficient even when there's a crush (there often is) - and there are great things to drink whether you're after coffee, European-accented wine, freshly squeezed juice or a single malt. Cumulus Inc succeeds because it gets the basics right. And that never gets old.