Mon-Wed noon-midnight, Thu-Fri noon-1am, Sat 3pm-1am, Sun 1pm-10pm
Choose your time to sit at Embla's kitchen bar carefully. Warm weather can make the proximity to the wood-fired oven and char-grill a little intense, though watching chef Dave Verheul and his crew slinging a boned half chicken, duck leg or pipis cooked with serrano and basil into the oven, or grilling a butterflied ocean trout (beautifully teamed with horseradish and purslane) over charcoal makes for great dinner theatre in any temperature. It's not all fire and smoke, though. Sticking to the brief of food to partner with Embla's wide-ranging and non-interventionist ("natural") wine list, the kitchen does a great line in raw and pickled dishes, too. Raw veal served with peas, tarragon and a salty tonnato sauce is a knockout as are soured cucumbers with dill and feta. Despite a no bookings policy at dinner and increasing popularity, Embla runs like a well-oiled machine thanks to a crew who know their food and wine. Good times for modern grown-ups.