Modern Australian
  • 122 Russell St,
    Melbourne, VIC
  • (03) 9654 5923,
  • Mon-Fri noon-1am, Sat 4pm-1am


The Town Mouse crew's city outpost is a more primal beast than its precise Carlton sibling. For starters, most of the cooking in the central open kitchen is done with fire (there's both a grill and wood-fired oven), including what is arguably the best roast chicken in town, as well as a charred broccoli dish lifted by a sunflower seed and broad bean dressing, and a butterflied, crisp-at-the-edges rainbow trout teamed with fresh horseradish. There are great pickled things, too - cucumbers with dill and feta, and mussels in sherry vinegar served with a fine rouille - all there in the service of the non-interventionist (aka natural) wine list. Compiled by co-owner Christian McCabe, it's a list that could convert many to the natural cause with its breadth, accessibility and prices. Put all of this together with a room where dark good looks are on par with comfort and there is every reason to make space for Embla on your CBD repertoire.

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At a glance

  • Food:
  • One Star
  • Wine:
  • Two glasses
  • Price:
  • E $4-$17

    M $24-$33

    D $10

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Wheelchair Access
    Impressive Wine List
  • Cards:
  • American Express
  • Bookings:
  • No bookings
  • Chef:
  • Dave Verheul



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