Lunch Tue-Sun noon-3pm
Dinner Tue-Sat 5.30pm-10pm
A meal at Epocha feels like dining at a rich aunt's place, albeit one who decided to buy a grand two-storey terrace overlooking Carlton Gardens, gut the ground floor and turn the dining room into the building's literal and lateral heart. The pungent, unmistakable scent of surface-ripened cheese that greets you on entry extends a telling welcome, while bottles of Gallic digestifs festoon the fireplace and upstairs cocktail lounge. The carte, as you'd expect, is grounded in the familiar: crudités and tiny puffy crumpets accompanied by honeycomb set the scene for the spirited dining to follow. Bone marrow toasts and poached prawns with English salad cream bring a touch of St John to proceedings, while roast chook and ricotta gnocchi in sugo are both comfort-plus. It's not pushing the envelope, but when the combination of reliable cooking, sharp service and a smart European-leaning cellar satisfy this much, does it matter?
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