Lunch Mon-Sat noon-3pm
Dinner daily 6pm-11pm
Courtly service and superior Cantonese cooking are immediately apparent to even the greenest of horns, but it's the details that the Drum's regulars savour: the untouched retro pleasures of the dining room, the acres between tables. The menu is packed with thrills, but devotees prefer the Socratic method: ask the staff what's looking good and let them guide you in its preparation. The pick of today's catch might be whiting; have it delicately battered, they'll recommend, with a nest of enoki mushrooms. How best to enjoy the jade tiger abalone? With slippery swatches of mung bean noodle to contrast the shellfish's tender firmness. This all comes at a cost, but the quality is on the plate, in the just-so crispness of green vegetables, say, or the crystalline quality of the broth holding a dumpling bulging with crab and scallop meat. Make it all up on the genteel mark-ups on the weightier end of that excellent wine list. A tour de force.