Dinner Wed-Sat 6pm-10.30pm
"DINE DRINK DANCE" reads the motto on the Harpoon Harry website, just in case the name didn't already alert would-be customers to the fact that this probably isn't the place to bring nonagenarian relatives or the otherwise infirm. If James Brown's design for this glammed-up pub dining room, bold of tile and capital of letter, doesn't get the pacemakers ticking, the modish, natural-leaning wine list might. And then there's Morgan McGlone's menu. It takes Nashville, the chef's one-time home, as its pole star, but roams the US, placing succotash alongside pork ribs, smoked low and slow in the St Louis style. Delicacy is not the forte here - the Fraser Island crab in a ravigote is blasted by an overabundance of coarsely cut pickled lemon - so the wise follow the road of excess, revelling in shrimp and grits (aka prawns on gravy-rich white cornmeal) and meaty pork chops. Hit the bourbon trolley to finish in true Southern style.