Dinner daily 6pm-10pm
Surry Hills swagger permeates this modern Chinese newcomer. Friendly, confident staff move through the whitewashed, two-storey space to the booming sounds of Metallica and Biggie, and tables are filled equally by the hospitality crew and the CBD crowd. The volume's been dialled up on the menu, too. Puffed beef tendons dusted with kombu salt snap, crackle and pop on your tongue, a Tsingtao longneck or skin-contact viognier making the ideal foil. Scallops, pummelled into slippery "silk", are poached and topped with XO. Butter is emulsified and dolloped onto a bowl of clams with smoked eel dashi, radishes and tapioca pearls, and then mixed with fish sauce and spooned over a blistered wedge of giving cabbage. If the mountain of Sichuan chillies tossed with king prawns and black pepper sauce gets too exciting, opt for a cleansing dessert of cucumber and elderflower sorbet, almond and coriander to smooth things over.
THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED