Lunch Sat noon-2pm;
Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-10pm
The food of Barbados figures minimally in the history of Australian fine-dining. Or at least it did till Paul Carmichael took the reins at Seiobo and looked to his heritage for a bold new direction. The glassed-in fridges now hold pineapples, pork and pumpkins; the Mud plates often come lined with banana leaf. But while Carmichael's sunny ease seems a world away from the intensity of Momofuku's earlier days, the attention to detail and focus in the kitchen haven't wavered. Koji butter and fronds of young coconut coax real magic from marron grilled with exquisite care, just as jerk-spiced crisp chicken skin adds interest to a bundle of chicken flecked with citrus. Wine and service are mannered but not unpleasantly so. Things you may have found irksome about Seiobo - the volume of the music, the focus on bar seating, the online quality of the reservations, the casino of its setting - remain, but they are transcended anew by a fresh vision.
Tasting menu $185
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