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Kensington, hold onto your hats.
Dinner Mon-Fri 5pm-10pm; Sat-Sun noon-10pm
Is everyone at Monopole on an illicit hot date or what? It certainly feels that way. Maybe it's the provocative black-on-black interiors, the breathless hum of jazz, or the way the staff respond to the smallest twitch of body language and appear instantly at your side. Or maybe it's the brooding exoticism of the multi-award-winning wine list curated by Nick Hildebrandt, voluptuous with cult Champagne and Burgundy. House-made charcuterie is fittingly adult, as is the oyster-cream accompaniment to grilled skirt steak. Is this place a wine bar or a restaurant? Salt cod with peas, pistachio and mint, popping with bright, thrilling flavour, scores big points for the kitchen. The only moment when the ardour might cool is dessert; it feels too sweet and cheerful to match the menu's other more grown-up pleasures. Good thing, then, that there's plenty of cheese on offer and a lot more wine.
Shared plates $8-$30
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