Lunch Sat-Sun noon-4pm
Dinner daily 5pm-10pm
While its parent restaurant, Bentley, becomes ever more rarefied, and its Potts Point offsider, Yellow, now focuses on meat-free cuisine, Monopole's identity as the most fun member of the family is as firmly etched as ever. The room is equal parts bar and restaurant, dark and sultry, with a permanent buzz and sizzle, and the tone and pace of the service is accordingly quickfire and sassy. But rakish as the air may be, there's nothing slapdash on the plates, let alone in the glass. Wine service is as finely tuned as any in the city, and the progressive cooking is likewise a precision affair, as evinced by the contrast of coarse grilled sourdough and fine chicken liver parfait, smooth and pretty in an iron cocotte, or the surprise foils of Jerusalem artichoke crisps, macadamia and rhubarb with a tartare of kangaroo. Intelligence is the theme here: someone has put a lot of thought into things, so that you, the diner, can simply focus on having a good time.