Lunch Fri-Sun noon-1.30pm
Dinner daily 6pm-9.30pm
Share plates. No bookings. Bar dining. None of these things trouble you at Quay, a restaurant that floats beyond trends as serenely as its dining room floats above the harbour, affording perfect views of bridge and Opera House both. Chef Peter Gilmore creates his own culinary language on the bespoke plates with rare ingredients and even rarer emphasis on texture in tandem with flavour. Crisp feathers of seaweed and dried scallop bring radical savoury richness to a take on XO sauce that counters the powerful sweetness of marron, while the layering of tastes in a composition of white walnuts, smoked eel, fermented mushrooms and pancetta is both adroit and artful, echoed later by a dessert playing the same nuts against prunes soaked in Madeira and caramelised white chocolate. It's a big operation, and service remains more rote than relaxed, but buffered by acres of ironed linen and a fine wine list, it can't obscure Quay's essential lustre.
Lunch menus $150-$235;
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