Dinner Wed-Sun 6pm-10.30pm
A tiny wood-mosaic door in a less than salubrious neighbourhood opens to an unexpected gastronomic wonderland. Inside, friendly, knowledgeable staff set the tone for an inventive yet unforced culinary adventure. Taken either in the traditional dining room, or in the glasshouse behind it, the tasting menu is both thoughtful and well paced. The menu turns with the season, so enjoy the sashimi of wild-caught Tasmanian kingfish while it lasts. It's served on an oyster cream, with white fungus adding to the texture and French tarragon contributing a potent liquorice tang. The kitchen spins potato into sublime pasta sheets, the addition of lobster butter and bottarga elevating it to game-changing status. The season's last cherries join with white chocolate, meringue and blackberries in an elegant finale. The wine list offers plenty of choice, but the wine matches are so interesting that surrender seems the path to victory.
5-course tasting menu $85