The Apo's heritage digs once housed an apothecary hall and, fittingly, this bar-restaurant still raises spirits, with an energetic team offering remedies for many ills. The meds have been replaced by cocktails and a smart wine list with a healthy range by the glass and half-bottle, while the thoughtful Middle Eastern-leaning share plates are good for whatever ails you. Smoky beef tartare, enriched with egg yolk and boosted with juniper salt, arrives sandwiched between huge potato crisps, coal-roasted banana prawns are plated with pickled riberries and black garlic purée, and pine-nut cream and chervil rev up Brussels sprouts. An edgy fit-out blends marble and raw brick with leather, concrete and splashes of blue, the fun spreading over two storeys and into the laneway out the back. Need a sweet parting shot? Perfumed quince makes a happy piece of casting in place of the usual apple in a tarte Tatin, topped with crème fraîche. Medic!
Share plates $5-$45
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