The February issue

Our clean eating issue is out now, packed with super lunch bowls, gluten-free desserts and more - including our cruising special, covering all luxury on the seas.

Subscribe to Gourmet

Subscribe to Australian Gourmet Traveller and receive a free Gourmet Menus book - offer ends 26 February 2017.

Gourmet digital

Subscribe to Gourmet Traveller for your iPad or Android tablet.

Most popular recipes summer 2017

Counting down from 20, here are this summer's most-loved recipes.

Curtis Stone's strawberry, elderflower and brioche summer puddings

"Think of this dessert as a deconstructed version of a summer pudding, with thinly sliced strawberries macerated in elderflower liqueur and layered between slices of brioche," says Stone. "A dollop of whipped cream on top is a cooling counterpoint to the floral flavours."

Fig recipes

Figs. We can't get enough of them. Here are a few sweet and savoury ways to add them to your summer spread.

Australia's best rieslings

We’re spoilt for variety – and value – in Australia when it comes to good riesling. Max Allen picks the top 20 from a fine crop.

Chorizo hotdogs with chimichurri and smoky red relish

A hotdog is all about the condiments. Here, choose between a smoky red capsicum relish or the bright flavours of chimichurri, or go for a bit of both.

Top Australian chefs to follow on Instagram in 2017

A lot has changed since we first published our pick of the best chefs to follow on Instagram (way back in the dark ages of 2013). Here’s who we’re double-tapping on the photo-sharing app right now.

Christine Manfield recipes

As the '90s dawned, darling chefs were pushing the boundaries of cooking in this country. A young Christine Manfield, just starting out at this heady time, soon became part of the generation that redefined modern Australian cuisine. She shares some of her timeless signatures from the era.

Curtis Stone's strawberry and almond cheesecake

"I've made all kinds of fancy cheesecakes in my time, but nothing really beats the classic combination of strawberries and almonds with a boost from vanilla bean," says Stone. "I could just pile macerated strawberries on top, but why not give your tastebuds a proper party by folding grilled strawberries into the cheesecake batter too? Cheesecakes are elegant and my go-to for celebrations because they taste best when whipped up a day in advance."

The storyteller chef

"It's not a straightforward cookbook," says GT's Chef of the Year, Ben Shewry, master of understatement. "And it's not really a restaurant book either. There's a lot of my family in there, and storytelling is a huge part of my family's heritage - telling real-life stories about what has been happening to us is something we've always done for entertainment - and so I wanted to bring some of that to it. So really it's the story of my journey to where I am now."

"Here", of course, is Attica, the Melbourne restaurant housed in what used to be a suburban bank. It's where New Zealand-born Shewry has for the last seven years been attracting increasing international attention (Noma's Rene Redzepi, for one, is a vocal cheerleader) for his clever, sometimes whimsical and always interesting cooking style while also developing his stances on ethics and sustainability.

More recently, his foray into the world of books has resulted in the moodily beautiful Origin: The Food of Ben Shewry. Shewry's claim that it's concerned with narrative as well as cooking is no idle marketing ploy. Parts of Origin read as a memoir about growing up in a close-knit family on a farm in the isolated rural north-west of New Zealand's North Island, with all the hard work, adventure and fantastic, almost fairy-tale elements that come with that particular territory.

Shewry's dramatic, sometimes disturbing tales tell of wild geese being senselessly slaughtered by drunken revellers at a party, of cooking schools run by bellowing, swearing chefs and of restaurants thick with Byzantine layers of politics and hierarchy. There are stories of eating Chinese takeaway with his grandparents, of taking a revelatory stroll through Copenhagen's King's Garden with food scientist Harold McGee. We see Shewry laying his first hangi at the age of 10 (potatoes only, not left long enough to cook properly), and we see him also washed off rocks while fishing as a kid and saved by his father. And we see him teaching his own children the ways and the joys of foraging. The storytelling gene is strong in this one.

Origin also reads as an entertaining how-to manual on, say, setting up that hangi, mustering a flock of panicked sheep (courtesy of Shewry's dad, Rob), foraging for sea lettuce and humanely butchering cattle. But for all the storytelling and philosophising, it's a book very much about the food of Attica.

Anyone who has eaten at Attica over the years will recognise some of the recipes in Origin, particularly the long-standing signature dishes such as the "simple dish of potato cooked in the earth it was grown" ("simple" is clearly a relative term: the ingredient list includes 3kg of soil), the ethereal, volcano-shaped "snow crab" and the six-separate-recipes, start-two-days-in-advance "terroir". You can see the Julie & Julia-style recipe challenge blogs already.

Certainly this is not cooking for the faint of heart. Origin belongs to that breed of restaurant book, along with Peter Gilmore's Quay, Mark Best's Marque and even Heston Blumenthal's Fat Duck Cookbook, where there is no dumbing-down of recipes, no shortcuts or offer of alternatives for the home cook.

"I haven't held back with the recipes," says Shewry. "I thought it was important for them to be exactly as we do them in the restaurant kitchen because it is the only way to really explain and show to people why we do the things we do, why we go to the trouble of doing things in certain ways."

One man's simplicity can be another's nervous breakdown, and while Shewry was fastidious about making sure the recipes were properly tested, nearly every dish in the book involves multiple components, many of which require advanced cooking skills and call for equipment such as rotary evaporators, chamber vacuum sealers and food dehydrators. "Terroir", for example, requires you to make beetroot cake, sorrel ice, fromage blanc sorbet, avocado jelly and terroir base (a mix of freeze-dried berries, barley and beetroot) and then finishes off with another recipe devoted just to plating and garnishing with an ingredient list that includes 32 burnet leaves. The very things that attract us to dishes on restaurant menus, of course, are the ones that send us packing when we read a recipe, and therein lies the challenge in all restaurant cookbooks.

Still, even if many of the recipes might appear insurmountable for the average home cook, the way they have been captured by photographer Colin Page (also responsible for the truly stunning landscape shots of both New Zealand and Australia that appear throughout the book) brings them to life on the page. Add the stories and Shewry's ability to deliver impassioned, personal arguments for sustainability and truth in labelling laws, ethical treatment of animals and responsible consumption without coming across as annoyingly preachy and you find yourself agreeing that this is a story worth staying with to the end.

A manifesto? Perhaps. But it's better and probably more accurate to think about Origin as The World According to Ben.

Origin: The Food of Ben Shewry is published by Murdoch Books (hbk, $95).

Newsletter

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

Latest news
Perfect match: Pasi Petanen and Giorgio De Maria pop-up this March
24.02.2017
Mexican ramen at Rising Sun Workshop
23.02.2017
Toby Wilson, Sean McManus and Jon Kennedy to open Bad Hombres
16.02.2017
What’s happening in South Yarra?
15.02.2017
Melbourne Food and Wine Festival’s chef collaborations
14.02.2017
Hot Plates: Long Chim, Melbourne
14.02.2017
GT
Signature Collection

Find out more about the Gourmet Traveller Signature Collection by Robert Gordon Australia, including where to buy it in store and online.

Read More
Recipe collections

Looking for ways to make the most out of seasonal produce? Want to find a recipe perfect for a party? Or just after fresh ideas for dessert? Either way, our recipe collections have you covered.

See more
2017 Restaurant Guide

Our 2017 Restaurant Guide is online, covering over 400 restaurants Australia wide. Never wonder where to dine again.

See more

You might also like...

Albert Street Food & Wine

Philippa Sibley may have left the building, but Albert St F...

Ananas Bar & Brasserie

With a soundtrack laden with dance beats and a dark, moody ...

Aravina Estate

The family-friendly nature of Aravina explains the terracot...

Assaggio

Assaggio's very red, very mod fit-out has undeniable flair,...

Aubergine

The grey-whiskered Ben Willis could pass for a maturing, bu...

Annie Smithers' Bistrot

Annie Smithers may have decamped for Du Fermier, but the bi...

Aquitaine Brasserie

The name is a nod to France's south-west gastronomic heartl...

Bacchus - Brisbane

Rydges doesn't exactly leap to mind when you think "complex...

Balla

Pronounce it "bah-la" for Piedmont-born artist and composer...

Balthazar

The mixing of business and pleasure comes second nature to ...

Boucher

Escargots, foie gras, bouillabaisse - the expected French s...

Carlton Wine Room

The relaxed ambience and witty, irreverent service may say ...

Celsius

A land of smoke and mirrors, Celsius is an urbane, nightclu...

Citron

Mark Newman's cassia beef cheek is the type of dish that ce...

Divido

To those who dream of the old country, Divido is the modern...

get the latest news

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

×