Food News

Focaccia’s comeback

Focaccia at Al Taglio

Scott Hawkins

With handsome examples coming from the likes of Fugazza in Melbourne and Sydney’s Bar Brosé (with seaweed butter, no less), the question isn’t so much “why is focaccia coming back now?” as “why did it go away in the first place?” The loaves Enrico Sgarbossa turns out at Sydney pizzeria Al Taglio are impressive enough to put any questions of retro naffness to rest permanently. He ferments the dough for 20 hours at 18 degrees, putting a third more water into it than most recipes call for, producing a result that’s light and spongy but full of flavour. Fugazza, 31 Equitable Pl, Melbourne, Vic;;

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