Restaurant Guide

Cumulus Inc.: Restaurant review


45 Flinders La
Melbourne, VIC


Breakfast Mon-Fri 7am-11.30am, Sat-Sun 8am-11.30am;
Daily noon-11pm


E $6-$29
M $28-$46
D $12-$17

With expansive windows framing the bustle of Flinders Lane, there are few experiences more quintessentially Melbourne than a meal at Cumulus Inc. Now in its second decade, Andrew McConnell's all-day diner makes the case that the simplest dishes are often the best. Tuna tartare, jewel-bright cubes adorned with nothing more than a whisper of fresh dill, is served on a vibrant crush of new season peas and a pillowy cloud of goat curd. Buffalo ricotta gnocchi, pan-fried and impressively airy, is plated with a smear of silky butternut pumpkin purée, a scattering of macadamia nuts and a handful of zippy herbs. Thumbs of tender Jerusalem artichoke filled with Parmesan custard, a hint of burnt honey and a dusting of rosemary salt become much more than the sum of their parts. The wine list is impressive and exhaustive, the service charming, and dessert recommended. A little dish of superbly sticky roasted quince paired with spice-laden, if unseasonal, hot cross bun ice-cream might raise the ire of purists but when it tastes this good, who's complaining?
(03) 9650 1445
Available for groups of 7–14 for breakfast, and groups of up to 14 for lunch and dinner.
  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair access
  • Private room
  • Breakfast
  • Impressive wine list
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • Japanese Credit Bureau
  • MasterCard
  • Visa
Andrew McConnell & Sam Cheetham
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.