Restaurant Guide

Cumulus Inc.: Restaurant review

Address

45 Flinders La
Melbourne, VIC

Hours

Breakfast Mon-Fri 7am-11.30am, Sat-Sun 8am-11.30am;
Daily noon-11pm

Prices

E $6-$29
M $28-$46
D $12-$17

With expansive windows framing the bustle of Flinders Lane, there are few experiences more quintessentially Melbourne than a meal at Cumulus Inc. Now in its second decade, Andrew McConnell's all-day diner makes the case that the simplest dishes are often the best. Tuna tartare, jewel-bright cubes adorned with nothing more than a whisper of fresh dill, is served on a vibrant crush of new season peas and a pillowy cloud of goat curd. Buffalo ricotta gnocchi, pan-fried and impressively airy, is plated with a smear of silky butternut pumpkin purée, a scattering of macadamia nuts and a handful of zippy herbs. Thumbs of tender Jerusalem artichoke filled with Parmesan custard, a hint of burnt honey and a dusting of rosemary salt become much more than the sum of their parts. The wine list is impressive and exhaustive, the service charming, and dessert recommended. A little dish of superbly sticky roasted quince paired with spice-laden, if unseasonal, hot cross bun ice-cream might raise the ire of purists but when it tastes this good, who's complaining?
Phone:
(03) 9650 1445
Bookings:
Bookings for 7+ only
Features:
  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair access
  • Private room
  • Breakfast
  • Impressive wine list
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa
Chef(s):
Andrew McConnell & Sam Cheetham
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.