Restaurant Guide

Firedoor: Restaurant review

You're here to watch chef Lennox Hastie work fireside, feeding logs into the oven and banking up white-hot coals under the grills.

Address

23-33 Mary St
Surry Hills, Sydney, NSW

Hours

Lunch Thu-Fri noon-2.30pm
Dinner Tue-Sat 5.30pm-10.30pm

Prices

E $23-$30
M $47-$70
D $16-$20

The elements are at play at Firedoor. Dishes often require hands and hand towels, firewood decorates the room, and Lennox Hastie is at the coalface in an open kitchen fuelled by fire, embers glowing. This is a restaurant that allows ingredients to speak for themselves, with a focus on pristine produce, prepared with fierce attention to heat and timing, and seasoned sparely– whether it's a marron, presented live to the table before being split and grilled, subtly smoky and sweet and accented with green finger lime and salty ice plant, or a pile of strawberry clams from Eden topped with blackened garlic scapes and 'nduja. Sliced marbled rump cap, served with pine mushrooms and a herb sauce, is an exceptionally handled piece of beef, but when the whir of the bandsaw and the couple at the next table are screaming "order the 185-day aged rib-eye" it's probably worth listening – just save your pennies. Service could use the same level of attention Hastie gives his craft, and a seat away from the grill can feel a step too far from the action, but the wine list is astute, and a smoked buttermilk panna cotta for dessert rightly jiggly. Burn, baby, burn.
Phone:
(02) 8204 0800
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Wheelchair access
  • Impressive wine list
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Diners Club
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa
Chef:
Lennox Hastie
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.