REVIEW
So you thought they didn’t make restaurants like this anymore? A splendid vision of terrazzo floors, royal-blue leather upholstery and a sweeping white marble bar twinkling with lamplight, Grill Americano brings retro glamour to its pursuit of produce-driven Italian perfection. There’s a “hang the expense account” feel to it all, with white-jacketed waiters delivering Tuscan bistecca from the wood grill and scampi on saffron risotto. Mere mortals can paddle in the shallow end with the quotidian appeal of Bolognese-stuffed arancini, chilli-dusted octopus carpaccio drenched in fruity olive oil and velvety anchovies with puffy focaccia and green-olive butter. But why not splash out a little? Whether it’s the signature mandarin-scented Americano cocktail, another glass of Barolo from the big-name list or a tiramisù with its surprise centre of glass-thin layer of tempered chocolate, Chris Lucas’s clubby triumph packs in so much brio it seems churlish not to join the party.
ABOUT
Grill Americano
Italian
112 Flinders Lane, Melbourne
(03) 8616 8010
Chef Douglas Keyte
Price guide $$
Hours Lunch and dinner daily
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.
Gourmet Traveller Annual Restaurant Guide
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national guide.
