Restaurant Guide

Hellenika at The Calile: Restaurant review

There's plenty to like at this Brisbane off-shoot.

Address

The Calile Hotel,
48 James St,
Fortitude Valley Qld

Hours

Breakfast daily 6.30am-10.30am
Lunch daily noon-2.30pm
Dinner daily 5pm-midnight

Prices

E $14-36
M $24-$45
D $6-16
Dégustations $38-$88

There's been change aplenty for Hellenika fans over the past two years. The $2.4 million reinvention of the restaurant's Gold Coast digs. And the glitzy second home at Brisbane's swanky Calile Hotel – all rose marble, white brick arches, sharp lines and, of course, those switched-on staff in their designer pink blazers. But the instant that first bowl of taramasalata lands, creamy bright and bursting with fish roe flavour, it's clear owner Simon Gloftis still sweats the small stuff. If this is home-style Greek, it's from a home using a precision lens. Silverbeet dolmades are crammed with comfort in the form of veal mince and swollen rice grains. Coal-grilled King George whiting is served off the bone, its skin sporting the right ratio of char, with simply oil, lemon and oregano to help it soar. Lamb shoulder accompanied by dill yoghurt and with spuds doused in roasting juices, meanwhile, will demolish plans for dessert. Perhaps a small pause first, and a pour of vinsanto from Santorini off a well-built drinks list that rewards the adventurous. Then, a lemon syrup-drizzled bougatsa, halva ice-cream and watermelon. Unnecessary, yes, but just as polished as the rest of the package.
Phone:
(07) 3252 2060
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair access
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa
Chef:
Bryan Kelly
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.