REVIEW
The allure of the bijou downstairs bar is great indeed, but resist the pink neon-bathed vision of snacky good times and head upstairs to the big boned warehouse, now transformed into a handsome dining hall. It's a blank canvas for chef Victor Liong, whose new-style Chinese food takes its cues from the lilting elegance of Cantonese but heads off in its own unique direction, evidenced by the two-bite starter of chicken crackling topped with cashew cream and black vinegar sauce and its delicate opposite, spanner crab and silken tofu smoked roe in a vibrant carrot and ginger sauce. Replete with 9-score wagyu, Murray cod and show-off ingredients galore, the tasting menu is now compulsory, although fans of Liong's signatures – the crisp eggplant in spiced red vinegar and crab and scallop fried rice – will be thrilled to see them on the specials list. Heartfelt service extends to a wine list with dangerous undertow and sums up a fine diner in casual clothing.
ABOUT
Chefs Victor Liong & Ana Cortés García
Price guide $$$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access No
Price guide $$$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access No
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
