REVIEW
“I don’t think we ordered this,” says some ignoramus as a bowl of glossy, porridge-like gruel – “Fujian fried rice”, allegedly – appears tableside. Then, as a ladle breaks up its eggy surface, the hidden grains and seafood emerge, forming a lush, smoky mass that’s part fried rice, part congee, all Victor Liong. It’s one of many surprises and contrasts that underpin this urbane modern Chinese restaurant, where a grungy laneway address gives way to an elegant two-floor safe house of soigné service, laser-sharp technique, legendary Aussie wines and Chinese tea pairings. Duck-skin crackers with caviar and ethereal mud crab and trout roe tartlets speak to a strong snack game, although the kitchen is equally adept with the classics. Black fungus sharpened with black vinegar? Crunchy! Pan-fried pork and chive dumplings? Terrific! Precision-roasted duck breast with pear hoisin and quivering, jasmine-scented crème caramel? Essential! Just like Lee Ho Fook itself.
ABOUT
Lee Ho Fook
Chinese
11-15 Duckboard Pl, Melbourne
(03) 9654 8239
Open Lunch Fri-Sun; Dinner Wed-Sat
Chef Victor Liong
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access No
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.
Gourmet Traveller Annual Restaurant Guide
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national guide.
