What's not to love about a place where you can swim in the ocean as an apéritif? A liberal attitude towards sandy feet and wet bathers is just one reason why Perth has fallen hard for this beachside address styled on the neighbourhood bars of Europe. While personable floor staff and a focus on new-wave wines contribute towards Madalena's appeal, most are lured here by the West's most essential seafood cooking. Butterflied Rottnest Island herring with pickled cucumber; golden red emperor wings accented with white pepper and a crudo of razor prawns and silken tofu in a ginger dressing speak to the kitchen's imagination and close working relationship with enthusiastic local fishmongers Fins. The $40 fish, frites and salad weekend lunch special for two revels in the value, both on the wallet and palate, of less celebrated species such as nannygai and flounder. Chef and Andrew McConnell alumus Adam Rees is no one-trick ponyfish, though. Roasted, dehydrated and fried squash with almond cream and buckwheat demonstrates respect for vegetarians. Slivers of just-set lemon tart – and another dip in the sea – make for the sweetest goodbye.
- Vegetarian friendly
- Wheelchair access
- Outdoor dining
Accepted card types:
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.