REVIEW
Score a seat at Pipit’s counter, and your dégustation experience comes with a hypnotising display of culinary efficiency, centred around a wood-burning stove above which hang gently smoking fish and slow-drying persimmons. Owner-chef Ben Devlin’s innings at Noma instilled not only a love of the fermented and aged, but also an ability to see every scrap as the foundation of a new dish. Just-picked, cut-to-order veggies are paired with a luminous, umami-rich paste made of the fermented offcuts. Grouper bones become crisp biscuits holding caramel made from grouper fat. Smoked oysters lie in a bright dashi cream made from leftover oysters. The “use everything” practice crescendos in a celebration of duck: blushing crown-roasted breast over sake-marinated quince, a celeriac “taco” of richly spiced wing sausage, and leg prosciutto draped over blackened sunchokes. It pairs perfectly with a crunchy Tasmanian pinot meunier and a view of all the action in one of the country’s most exciting kitchens.
ABOUT
Pipit
Contemporary
Shop 4, 8 Coronation Ave, Pottsville
0490 380 117
Chef Ben Devlin
Price guide $$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Fri-Sun; Dinner Thu-Sat
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.
