Restaurant Guide

Tetsuya's: Restaurant review

There's nothing else like Tetsuya's in Sydney. It's an oasis of hush in a Japanese-styled building hidden in a gated compound right in the CBD.

The signature confit trout at Testuya's

Address

529 Kent St
Sydney, NSW

Hours

Lunch Sat noon-2pm
Dinner Tue-Fri 5.30pm-9pm, Sat 6.30pm-9.30pm

Prices

Tasting menu $240

The things that once made Tetsuya's such a coveted booking may no longer be as revolutionary for a national palate now more attuned to Japanese flavours, but that doesn't mean the food is any less alluring. It's still a thrill to behold the signature confit ocean trout, draped elegantly over matchsticks of green apple and witlof, to feel the pop of the unpasteurised trout roe, to savour the length of flavour in the crumbled kombu coating. Elsewhere, sharp Pacific oysters dressed with soy and rice vinegar might be $12 a pop, but this is a place where classic pleasures (extending to an elegant wine selection, lush carpet, polished service and, yes, valet parking) come first, even if they come at a price. Plates range between raw and poached, sashimi kingfish accented with dashi cream and cucamelon, perhaps, or lamb cooked sous-vide and served with watercress purée and charred leek. Sound, if a little safe. Abalone with oyster dashi and wakame is more like it, nicely to the bite and dressed up with iceplant and seablite. This is cooking rendered with as much attention as the Zen garden that anchors the restaurant. Just imagine if it could train both eyes on the future.
Phone:
(02) 9267 2900
Website:
tetsuyas.com
Bookings:
Bookings essential
Features:
  • Licensed
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Private room
  • Impressive wine list
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Diners Club
  • MasterCard
  • Visa
  • Eftpos
Chef(s):
Tetsuya Wakuda & Josh Raine
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.