Restaurant Reviews

Cumulus Inc.: Restaurant review

Address

45 Flinders La
Melbourne, VIC

Hours

Breakfast Mon-Fri 7am-11.30am, Sat-Sun 8am-11.30am;
daily noon-10pm
Bookings Mon-Fri lunch; for 7+ only at other times

Prices

E $5-$29
M $28-$42
D $16-$17

REVIEW

Ten years ago we wrote of "the magic" we felt upon walking into a restaurant like Cumulus Inc. "Sometimes it even lasts," we said. It has. Andrew McConnell's all-day diner remains the epitome of a particularly Melbourne mode of eating. It's casual, but not mindlessly populist; sophisticated, but never puts art before flavour, despite the gallery-like setting. Kingfish is typically vibrant, set in a rich buttermilk dressing verdant with spring onion oil and decorated with coriander flowers. Cool, just-blanched calamari takes on the power of 'nduja with the textural contrast of fried bread and curry leaves, and notes of bitterness and herbaceousness from radish and fennel. Pork scotch is crisp-finished but still pink, braced with radicchio and mustard seeds. Desserts include a Lune croissant, blitzed and transformed into mindblowing ice-cream. Long may this magic continue.
Phone:
(03) 9650 1445
Bookings:
Bookings lunch only
Features:
  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair Access
  • Private room
  • Breakfast
  • Impressive Wine List
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa
Chef(s):
Andrew McConnell & Sam Cheetham
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.