Restaurant Reviews

Firedoor: Restaurant review

Firedoor

Address

23-33 Mary St
Surry Hills, Sydney, NSW

Hours

Lunch Thu-Fri noon-2.30pm
Dinner Tue-Sat 5.30pm-10pm

Prices

E $12-$29
M $36-$42
D $11-$16
6-course chef's menu $85

REVIEW

You're here to watch chef Lennox Hastie work fireside, feeding logs into the oven and banking up white-hot coals under the grills. Fire and smoke touch every plate, but not with a campfire intensity. Don't come expecting to taste the nuance of woods (apple, grapevine, peach, orange) that they cook with. Be prepared, instead, for considered plates featuring a handful of seasonal  ingredients. Sure, you could go for 238-day dry-aged rib of beef, but that could mean missing out on delicately sweet lamb chops, their charry flavour brightened by salsa verde, or strawberry clams, roasted in their shells and tossed in their briny juices with samphire and garlic shoots, or creamy stracciatella, its richness offset by the smoky tang of roasted tomatoes. Said tomatoes come peeled - a detail that speaks to the rigour of the kitchen, which extends to the switched-on team pouring the fun drinks and convincing you the wood-fired passionfruit pav is a good idea. (It is.)

Phone:
(02) 8204 0800

Bookings:
Bookings recommended

Features:

  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Wheelchair Access
  • Impressive Wine List

Accepted card types:

  • American Express
  • Diners Club
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa

Chef(s):
Lennox Hastie

This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.