Restaurant Reviews

Firedoor: Restaurant review

Firedoor

Address

23-33 Mary St
Surry Hills, Sydney, NSW

Hours

Lunch Thu-Fri noon-2.30pm
Dinner Tue-Sat 5.30pm-10pm

Prices

E $22-$33
M $40-$56
D $16

REVIEW

Though the décor celebrates the elemental, flames readily visible from the open kitchen, firewood stacked in the window of the raw but comfortable dining room, the food at Firedoor shows that letting fire and produce drive your menu doesn't have to mean surrendering precision and nuance. Though all the cooking here is done over coals, Lennox Hastie doesn't like things raw or burnt. Instead he warms yellowfin tuna to bring out its flavour, framing it with pear and shiso, or cooks freshly killed marron until the protein barely sets, its sweetness shining through a discreet finger-lime dressing. The music is a bit naff, but wine and service are thoughtful and apt. Dessert is no afterthought; of course they can't resist setting fire to the rhubarb bombe Alaska. Come for the fire, stay for the exceptional produce, and keep coming back for a restaurant unlike any other.

Phone:
(02) 8204 0800

Bookings:
Bookings recommended

Features:

  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Wheelchair Access
  • Impressive Wine List

Accepted card types:

  • American Express
  • Diners Club
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa

Chef(s):
Lennox Hastie

This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.