Restaurant Reviews

Lee Ho Fook: Restaurant review

Lee Ho Fook

Address

11 Duckboard Pl
Melbourne, VIC

Hours

Lunch Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm
Dinner daily 6pm-11pm

Prices

E $7-$28
M $29-$48
D $6-$16

REVIEW

Chef Victor Liong calls it cheeky Chinese. Others - noting the laneway location, the old red brick warehouse and its neon-lit bar - prefer to call it hipster Chinese. Lee Ho Fook marches to the beat of its own drum, but for all the cheek (Chongqing-style chicken crackling, the offbeat but effective mix of heirloom tomatoes, fried tofu and buffalo mozzarella with dried shiso and sumac), there's plenty of technique on this snack-and-share menu. Smoked eel, silken tofu and pickled shimeji mushrooms make for an ethereal two-bite entrée; eggplant cigars inside a toffee-crisp batter are sluiced with red vinegar for sweet-sour brilliance. And as for the wagyu tartare spliced with mapo tofu, it's a West-meets-East triumph with creeping Sichuan heat. There's plenty of fun to be had at this upmarket Chinese chophouse, but it also has serious smarts - including the wine list, which takes the road less travelled to the Old World - and super-savvy staff.

Phone:
(03) 9077 6261

Bookings:
Bookings recommended

Features:

  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Impressive Wine List

Accepted card types:

  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa

Chef(s):
Victor Liong

This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.