Restaurant Reviews

Osteria Balla Manfredi: Restaurant review

Address

The Star
80 Pyrmont St
Pyrmont, Sydney, NSW
Australia

Hours

Lunch Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm;
Dinner Mon-Sat 5.30pm-10pm

Prices

E $22-$27
M $39-$47
D $14

REVIEW

Like Mario Testino working with Kate Moss, a certain magic happens when Stefano Manfredi meets flour and water. Hand-rolled pasta, be it trad ravioli (bouncy with burrata and basil) or experimental maccheroncini (earthy from kamut flour and salty with ricotta salata), is consistently excellent, and comforting (eyes on you, veal ragù). Yamba prawns, smoky from the wood-fired grill, are sea-sweet, but undone by a ho-hum tomato, olive and oregano garnish. This kind of bottom-up cooking, with its tight focus on produce, relies on deft execution. It's evident in the pan-roasted duck breast, crisp of skin, with nothing more than nectarine purée and bitter amaranth leaves; it's there in the rocket and Parmigiano salad; and in the fluffy pandoro with white chocolate mousse. The Futurist wall art is as conceptual as it gets at Balla. Swift service, a customer-first attitude, an extensive wine list, and water glimpses round out Manfredi's magic act.  
Phone:
(02) 9657 9129
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair Access
  • Private room
  • Impressive Wine List
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa
Chef(s):
Stefano Manfredi & Gabriele Taddeucci
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.