Restaurant Reviews

Porteño: Restaurant review

Porteño

Address

50 Holt St
Surry Hills, Sydney, NSW
Australia

Hours

Lunch Fri noon-3pm
Dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-10pm

Prices

E $24-$40
M $18-$55
D $10-$16

REVIEW

Here's the deal: the original Porteño remains on Cleveland Street, a rock-and-roll function centre; the restaurant, meanwhile now occupies a smaller, more open space on Holt Street. The effect is not one of diminution so much as focus. The food is familiar - the fabulously beefy wagyu skirt, charry sweetbreads, the chorizo brick-red with paprika, all smoky from the parrilla - but execution is tighter, the flavours clearer. Service is more attentive and inclusive, and where too often the serves carved from the lamb or pig done on the gaucho-style grill could comprise a lot of fat and bone, the ratio today is carved with more care. It's still very rich (even the smart vegetarian offerings are bombed with dairy, as in the case of the chickpea and squash pancake, laden with ricotta) but balance is easier to find than before. Closing, for instance, with the perfectly virtuous wood-fired fruit with yoghurt sorbet and a pleasingly herbal rosemary syrup.

Phone:
(02) 8399 1440

Bookings:
Bookings recommended

Features:

  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair Access
  • Private room

Accepted card types:

  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa

Chef(s):
Ben Milgate & Elvis Abrahanowicz

This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.