REVIEW
Shadow by name and aesthetic, this restaurant cuts a sophisticated silhouette on Northbridge’s main artery. Clever use of light drapes the banquettes and open bar with a cocoon-like intimacy; it also accentuates the room’s industrial good looks. Chirpy service, a weighty wine offering and the freedom to drink, snack and dine makes the in-house diner at Alex Hotel a real crowd-pleaser. The menu subtly channels the old-school European restaurants that once defined the neighbourhood, so char-grilled Fremantle octopus comes with kipfler potato coins and a lively romesco sauce, while Shark Bay crab spaghettini with capers, dill and blistered cherry tomatoes suggests the kitchen would do well to add more pasta to the carte. A well-caramelised pear tarte Tartin with tonka bean ice-cream is a reminder that there’s beauty in the basics done well. Could we be looking at a blueprint for boutique hotel eateries of the future? Here’s hoping.
Phone:
(08) 6430 4010
Website:
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
Licensed
Bar
Wheelchair Access
Outdoor dining
Accepted card types:
American Express
Diners Club
Eftpos
MasterCard
Visa
Chef(s):
Sue Hutchins
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
