REVIEW
In an age where line-ups and street cred can too often rule Melbourne’s food scene, The Grand can seem almost retro. All the nostalgic hallmarks of proper dining are there: comfortable chairs, linen-clad tables, carpeted floors and the rare treat of floor staff who really know how to treat a guest. Though the cosy, chocolate-hued dining room might be showing its age, the kitchen still nails the authentic Italian fare that has made the place so popular and consistent. Pasta, made in-house, is a must-order. Spaghetti alla chitarra arrives perfectly al dente and tossed with a rich wild rabbit, olive and pine nut braise. Crisp-skinned, twice-cooked duck with fragrant, Roman-style orange and juniper sauce is textbook, while whole baked snapper with capers and samphire stretches the trad Italian approach with positive results. Dessert is fluffy vanilla mousse with dark chocolate, salted caramel and popcorn, but prepare to loosen a belt hole – the main courses are generous.
Phone:
(03) 9429 2530
Website:
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
Licensed
Bar
Vegetarian-friendly
Wheelchair Access
Outdoor dining
Private room
Impressive Wine List
Accepted card types:
American Express
Diners Club
Eftpos
MasterCard
Visa
Chef(s):
Andrew Beddoes
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
