The recent switch from set menu to à la carte has paid off at Labart, and dining at this European-style bistro has never felt more relaxed. It’s thanks to owners Alex and Karla Munoz Labart, and head chef Stefano Rosi (ex-Tipo 00), who, one year into his tenure, is shining. Given Rosi’s background, you can expect excellent pasta – like textbook king prawn ravioli in a saffron, tomato and shellfish sauce, say – and unpretentious, flavour-packed dishes, such as toasted brioche topped with earthy mushroom custard and grated parmesan. Across the menu, there’s renewed emphasis on less being more, resulting in clarity and elegance. Hibachi-grilled quail comes with caramelised figs and coffee butter-infused hibiscus sauce, while black mussels show up in escabeche with croûtons. Add a broadly appealing wine list, personable service and new outdoor seating, and you’ve got an experience that’s more accessible and enjoyable than ever. Gold stars all around.
