There’s something inherently comforting about the smell of freshly baked hot cross buns come Easter. Perhaps it’s the nostalgic scent of rising dough, the festive aroma of warm spices, or even the sweet perfume of orange and sugar bubbling away atop a kitchen stove for the glaze.
Straight from the oven or lightly toasted, these fruit-studded hot cross buns are a Good Friday breakfast ritual, one dating back more than 700 years. But which ingredients and methods produce the best hot cross bun? Knead or press? Does fresh or dried yeast work best? Caster or brown sugar? How sticky should the glaze be? We tested three recipes, then combined them to create our ultimate hot cross buns recipe.
ELIZABETH DAVID’S HOT CROSS BUNS RECIPE
from English Bread and Yeast Cookery
Elizabeth David has explored the history of hot cross buns throughout her food literature. Her version calls for fresh yeast and strong baker’s flour, with the addition of eggs, milk, light brown sugar and softened butter. The dough is flavoured with mixed spice and currants, rested for 2 hours, then rolled and proved again in bun tins (we used a muffin tin). David cuts the cross into the dough rather than making a paste, and uses a simple glaze of equal quantities milk and caster sugar.
The verdict:
The result is an old-school style of English hot cross bun with subtle spice levels, a golden outer crust and a light, yet slightly dry crumb. This is a fairly easy classic hot cross buns recipe.
NATALIE PAULL’S HOT CROSS BUNS RECIPE
from Beatrix Bakes
The hot cross buns recipe in this book from Melbourne baker Natalie Paull of Beatrix bakery stars orange strongly. Currants and sultanas are soaked in the juice of an orange, while the flesh from a second fruit is blended to a pulp and added to the dough, its zest flavouring the hot cross bun glaze. The dough also calls for plain flour, caster sugar, milk, “soft and squidgy” butter and fresh yeast (no eggs).
The verdict:
Overall, these hot cross buns are dense and doughy, and although cooked through, have a raw consistency (we even tried a batch with an extra 15-minute cook time). However, the hot cross bun texture does improve slightly as they cool. The inclusion of a whole, puréed orange in the dough is an inspired idea, but may contribute to the hot cross bun’s density.
NADINE INGRAM’S HOT CROSS BUNS RECIPE
from Flour and Stone: Baked for Love, Life and Happiness
Ingram’s hot cross bun dough uses softened butter, like the other recipes, with strong baker’s flour, brown sugar, milk and one egg, and the choice of either fresh or dried yeast (we used dried). The spice blend consists of cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg and cloves. A fruit mixture of sultanas, currants and raisins are hydrated in boiling water, and there is the addition of candied orange peel, too. The hot cross buns are piped with a flour-oil paste flavoured with orange-blossom water and nutmeg, while the glaze is simple: caster sugar, water and orange zest.
The verdict:
It’s a big call, but this is pretty close to being the perfect hot cross buns recipe. The dough is consistent throughout, its soft, pillowy texture is studded with plump, juicy fruit and pieces of zesty peel.
GT’s ULTIMATE HOT CROSS BUN RECIPE
This recipe combines everything we loved from the three tested hot cross buns recipes, plus a few GT tweaks. We started with Nadine Ingram’s base, and from Natalie Paull’s recipe we borrowed the idea of soaking the dried fruit in orange juice and added a splash of Pedro Ximénez. For the best spice flavour, dry-roast whole spices and grind them yourself. The cross is slightly thicker than any we tested, and our glaze has the addition of vanilla. And voilá, that’s how we created our best hot cross buns recipe.
Start this recipe one day ahead to soak the dried fruit.
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